,. ^ ■>^' > — X ^' 



Popular Gentleman 
System 

For 

Cutting and Designing 

Of 

MEN'S Garments 



PUBLISHED BY 

Popular Gentleman Service Company 

LOCK BOX 6345 
W. PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



<\ 



K 






J 



C()]p.vrinht 1017 by 
ropular (it'iitlemiui Servire Company 



m 29 1917 




/ I y ^ ©CIA4R720S 






LIMITED EDITION. 

This edition is limited to one thousand complete copies 

of which this is No. . This copyright volume is 

for the exclusive use of 

of 

POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY. 



1917 Edition "A" 



DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW TO TAKE A 
DEPRESSION MEASURE 




Diagram No I 

Normal TiGune 



The yard stick must always be straight up and down and not lean in or 
out at the top or bottom. Use the yardstick as shown in Diagrams 1-2 and 3. 

Diagram 1 shows how to hold the yard stick and square. 

Measure in for the waist depression from the edge of the yard stick to 
the hollow part of the waist which is 2 inches for a normal man, but can be 
more or less. 




WAIST 
Depression 



Seat 
Depression 



DIAGRAM No. ^ 

Stooping Form and 
Sway to Front 



Diagram No. 2 shows the stooping and sway to the front form. The 
distance from the yard stick to the hollow part of waist is 2V2 inches, but 
can be more or less. 

The distance from the yard stick in to the seat is li/o inches, but can 
be more or less. 

When drafting trousers for this form deduct the seat depression from 
the waist depression before drafting and the difference gives you the cor- 
rect waist depression for the trousers. 




Bl_AOE 
Otr>RCSSION 



Waist 

DtPRtSSlOM 



Diagram No. 3 



Diagram No. 3 shows the erect form with large seat. When drafting 
a coat for a form of this kind, deduct the blade depression from the waist 
depression and draft the pattern. After the pattern is drafted add to the 
&eat measure the amount you reduced the waist depression. 

When drafting trousers draft them the full waist depression measure 
always. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE 





Diagram No. I 



Diagram No.3 



Take the breast and waist measure and 
then place the square up under the arm as 
shown, and mark in the front and back of the 
arm at the top of square as Diagram No. 1. 



Place the edge of the square on the mark 
at the back of arm and square across as 
shown. Mark in the center of the back at 
the top of the square for the scye depth as 
shown in Diagram No. 3. 




Diagram Ho.Z 




Diagram Na4- 



Place the square over the top of the should- 
er and mark in back of the square in front 
of arm scye as Diagram No. 2. 



Take the scye depth and waist length, also 
the length of seat and the full length as 
shown in Diagram No. 4. 





Diagram No.5 



D/AGRAM No. 6 



Take the strap measure from the center 
seam in the back of vest at the neck down 
to the mark in front of arm as shown on Dia- 
gram No. 5. 



Take the over shoulder measure from the 
scye depth mark in the center of the back, 
across the shoulder and down to the mark 
in front of the arm as shown on Diagram 
No. 6. 




Diagram No. 7 



Take the blade measure from the mark in front of arm, around to the 
seam in the center of the back as shown on Diagram No. 7. 



HOW TO ENLARGE MEASURE 



To get an easy sack coat you should increase the breast and waist mea- 
sure one or more sizes or as much as is wanted for ease. 



None of the other measures should be changed if they have been taken 
correctly, namely: the strap measure, the overshoulder measure or scye 
depth. 



In cutting overcoats take the measures of the vest, and enlarge the 
breast and waist measures 3 inches for regular overcoat, or as much as is 
wanted for size. 



Do not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you 
add to the above measures by dropping the arm scye which is shown on 
the drafts. 



If the above is followed out closely you will get good results. 



10 



HOW TO OPEN VEST FOR A STOUT MAN AS 
SHOWN ON DIAGRAM 




The solid black lines show the vest after it is opened. 

The broken lines show the vest before it is opened. 

The solid black space from the side at the point D across to the front 
at point C shows how the vest is filled in. 

Draw a line back from the pocket to A and cut the pattern from A in to 
B and thru to C. 

Open the pattern from A to D 14 of aii i'lch for each inch stout. 

Paste a piece of paper over the opening from the front point at C back 
to point D and draw a line from D to B. 

Take out the space between A and D and into B. 

This leaves the solid black space filled in as diagram, which gives the 
length over the stomach for the stout. 

This finishes the diagram. 



11 



DIAGRAM SHOWING NORFOLK OVER REGULAR 

SACK COAT 




A is located at the front sleeve notch. 

Square across from A to get B. 

Cut the pattern thru from A to B and add V2 inch for seams. 

C is located at the top of the side seam in the arm scye. 

Square across from C to get D. 

Open the pattern thru from C to D and allow y.> inch for seams. 

A to E is 3 inches. 

E to E-1 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E down to get E-2. 

E-2 to E-3 is 2 inches. This forms the front strap. 

I-ay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the front strap. 

F is located at the normal waist line. 

F-1 is located at the normal waist line. 

F-2 is located at the normal waist line. 

Draw a line from F-2 to the front of coat above the bottom button 1 inch 

to get F-3. 
Go down from F, F-1, F-2 and F-3 for the width of belt 2 inches and shape 

as diagram. 

G is half way between F and F-1. 

G to G-1 is 1 inch. 

G to G-2 is 1 inch. 

Square up from G-1 to locate G-4. 

Square up from G-2 to locate G-3. 

Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the back strap. 

Open the pattern thru at the side seams and lay the side seams of fore part 

and back together. 
Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt. 
This finishes the diagram. 



13 



HOW TO OPEN A COAT FOR A STOUT MAN 
AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM 




(tpen the pattern at the under arm seam from the arm hole down to the 

pocket at H. Cut thru pattern from H to H-1 which is 1/2 inch back 

from the front edge of pocket. 
Open the pattern from H-1 to D-6. 
Open the pattern as diagram at H Vi inch for each inch stout or as much as 

you want to give for ease. 
Cut a strip of paper the shape of the opening from H to H-1 and D-6. 
Paste the strip of paper over the opening from D-G to H-1 and H. 
The solid black shown on diagram is how the coat is to be filled in. 
Cut from H in to H-1 and take out the white space from top of pocket at H 

and into H-1. 
Take off the side body at H as nnich as it laps. 
This finishes the diagram for the stout. 



14 



DIAGRAM OF SOLID PINCH BACK 




A and B is the normal waist line. 

Come up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D. 

Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, C 

and D. 
E and F is half way between A and C and B and D. 
Draw a line from E to F. 
Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1. 
Add 14 inch to E to get E-1. 
ohape the back at diagram. 
E-1 to X is 2 inches. 
Square up and down from X. 
X to X-1 is 21/2 inches. 
Square up and down from X-1. 
Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram. 
Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at E as diagram. 
This finishes the diagram. 



15 



DIAGRAM OF HALF PINCH BACK 




DIAGRAM 1. 

Diagram 1 shows the normal waist line at A and B. 

Go up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D. 

Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, C 

andD. 
E and F is half way between A and C and B and D. 
Draw a line from E to F. 



16 




DIAGRAM 2. 

Cut the pattern thru on line E and F as diagram 2. 

Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1. 

Add 14 inch at E to E-1. 

Shape the back as diagram at E-1 and F-1. 

X is 2 inches in from E-1. 

Square up from X. 

X to X-1 is 21/2 inches. 

Square up from X-1. 

Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram. 

Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at E as diagram. 

If where the back is split thru is to be seamed up allow 1/2 inch for the 
seams. 

This finishes the diagram. 



17 



REGULAR TROUSERS 




The measurements are as follows : 



Outside seam 41 in. 

Inseam 32 in. 



Waist 31 in. Knee ._ 

Seat 37 in. Bottom 

Depression 2 inches. 



19 in. 
16 in. 



Square down and out from 1. 
1 to 3 is the rise 9 inches. 

1 to 6 is the outside seam measure 41 inches. 
■! is half way between 3 and 6. 

o is 1Y> inch up from 4. 

2 is Vs seat up from 3. 
Square out from 2, 3, 5 and G. 

3 to 7 is 1/2 seat. 

7 to 8 is 1-32 seat. 



18 



8 to 9 is 1-12 seat. 

9 to 10 is 1-32 seat. 

11 is half way between 9 and 3. 
Square up from 11 to get point 12. 

12 to 13 is l^ waist plus l^ inch. 
12 to 14 is 14. waist plus 14 inch. 

Draw a line from 13 to 7, this gives you point 15. 
Draw a line from 13 to 8. 
L'raw a line from 14 to 2. 

16 is half way between 7 and 9. 
Square down from 16 to get point 17. 

17 to 18 is 1/0 inch. 

18 to 19 is y-> bottom or 8 inches. 

20 is half way between 18 and 19. 

Draw a line from 20 up thru the knee to 11, this locates point 21, at the 
knee. 

21 to 22 is 1,4 knee measure. 

21 to 23 is 14 knee measure. 

Draw a line from 18 to 22 and from 19 to 23 and up to point 2. 

Shape side seam from 9 to 22, and from 10 to 22. 

Shape from 13 down to 10. 

Take out dress from 13 to 15 and down thru 9 to 10. 

Shape side seam from 14 to 2. 

This finishes the fore part. 

BACK PART. 

Square out from points 1, 13, 2, 3, 10, 22 and 18. 
23 to 24 is Y> inch. 

22 to 25 is 1/2 inch. 

1 8 to 26 is 1/2 inch. 

19 to 27 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw a line from 27 to 24. 
Draw a line from 26 to 25. 

10 to 28 is i/s seat. 
Shape from 28 to 25. 

Square up from point 8 to get point 29. 

29 to 30 is the depression measure 2 inches. 

Place long arm of square on point 15 and 30 so that the short arm of square 
rests on line 1 and apply 14 of the waist measure plus 2 inches for 
seams and make up, which in this case is 9% inches on short arm of 
square, so that it falls on hne 1 as diagram, and gives you point 31. 

Now draw a line from 31 across to corner of square and down to 30 and 
15 and shape the back seam as diagram dropping 14 inch below point 
28. 

31 to 32 is 3 inches. 

32 to 33 is 1 inch. 

Take out V at 32 and 33. 

2 to 34 is l'^/4, inches. 

Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24. 

This finishes the draft. 



19 



STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS 




The measurements are : — 

Outside seam 42 in. Seat 44 in. Depression measure 

„, . ,, , ... at waist 2 in. 

Inseam 31 m. Abdomen 44 m. ^^^^ gi in. 

Waist 42 in. Rise 11 in. Bottom 17 in. 



20 



Square down and out from 1. 
1 to 3 is the rise 11 inches. 

1 to 6 is the outside seam measure 42 inches. 
■i is half way between 3 and 6. 

5 is IV2 inches up from 4. 

2 is Vr seat up from 3. 
Square out from 2, 3, 5 and 6. 
8 to 7 is 1/2 seat. 

7 to 8 is 1-32 seat. 

8 to 9 is 1-12 seat. 

9 to 10 is 1-32 seat. 

1 1 is half way between 9 and 3. 
Square up from 11 to get point 12. 

12 to 13 is 14 waist plus 14 of an inch. 
12 to 14 is 14 waist plus i/i. of an inch. 
12 to F is 1-6 abdomen measure. 
Square out from F. 

F to F-1 is 14 abdomen measure. 

F-2 is 14 of an inch from F-1. 

F-3 is 1-32 waist up from 13. 

Draw a line from 14 to F-3. 

Draw a line from F-3 to F-1 and from F-3 to F-2. 

Draw a line from 27 to 24. 

Draw a line from 26 to 25. 

10 to 28 is Vb seat. 
Shape from 28 to 25. 

Square up from point 8 to get point 29. 

29 to 30 is incline measure at waist 2 inches. 

Place long arm of square on points 15 and 30 so that the short arm of 
square rests on line squared back from 1 — now apply 14 of the waist 
measure plus 2 inches for seams and make up, which in this case is 
121/2 inches on short arm of square so that it falls on line squared back 
from 1 as diagram and gives you point 31, now draw a line from 31 
across to corner of square and down to 30 and 15. 

Now shape the back seam as diagram dropping 1/4 of an inch below point 28. 

"1 to 32 is 3 inches. 

32 to 33 is 1 inch. 

Take out V at 32 and 33. 

2 to 34 is 134 inches. 

Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24. 

This finishes the draft. 



21 



GOLF TROUSERS 




The measurements are as follows : — 



Outside length 30 in. 

Inseam length 21 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Seat 38 in. 



Knee length 23 in. 

Small of knee 

length 25 in. 

Calf length __._ 29 in. 
Rise 9 in. 



Knee ISi/i in- 
Small of knee _14 in. 

Calf 15 in. 

Depression 2 in. 



Square down and out from 1. 

1 to A is the rise 9 inches. 

1 to B is the knee length. 

1 to C is the small of knee length plus 1 inch. 

1 to D is the calf length jjIus 1 inch. 

Square out from A, B- C, and D. 



A to A-1 is 1/2 seat plus i/j inch. 
A-1 to A-2 is 1-12 seat plus 1/2 inch. 
Scjuare up and down from A-1 to get points 

2 and B-1. 
Point 15 is ' <! seat up from A-1. 
A-3 is h;df way between A and A-2. 



M. 



_s 



.$=1 



Square up from A-3 to locate 3. 

4 is 14 waist plus l/i inch from 3. 

5 is i/i waist plus Vi inch from 3. 
Draw a line from 5 to A-1. 

A to A-4 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from A-4 to 4. 

B-1 to B-2 is 1/2 the knee measure. 

B-2 to B-3 is 1 inch. 

Square down from B-3 to get C-1. 

B-1 to B-4 is 1 inch. 

Square down from B-4 to get C-2. 

Draw a line from A-2 to C-2. 

Draw a line from A-4 to C-1. 

Form 4 small pleats with the amount C-1 to 
C-2 is larger than small of knee measure 
as diagram. 

C-3 is half way between C-1 and C-2. 

C-3 to C-4 is 14. small of knee plus 14 inch. 

C-3 to C-5 is 14 small of knee plus 14 inch. 

Square down from C-3 to locate D-1. 

D-1 to D-2 is 1/4 calf measure plus i/j. of an 
inch. 

D-1 to D-3 is 14 calf measure plus 14 of an 
inch. 

Draw a line from C-5 to D-2 and C-4 to D-3. 

Shape from 5 to A-2. 

Shape from 4 thru A-4 and down to C-1. 

Shape from D-2 to D-3 extending 1/2 inch 
below D-1 as diagram. 



BACK PART. 

Square out from 1, A-2 and A-4. 

20 is 2 inches in from 5 or the depression 
measure. 



A-5 is Ys seat from A-2. 

A-6 is 2 inches from A-4. 

C-6 is 1/2 inch from C-2. 

C-7 is 1/2 inch from C-1. 

Draw a line from A-5 to C-6. 
Draw a line from A-6 to C-7. 
C-4 to E is 1/2 inch. 
C-5 to E-1 is 1/2 inch. 
D-2 to E-2 is 1/2 inch. 
D-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw a line from E to E-4. 
Draw a line from E-1 to E-2. 

Place your square on points 15 and 20 so that 
the short arm of square rests on line 
squared out from 1, and apply your 
waist measure plus 2 inches for the 
seams and V on line 1 to get point X. 

Draw a line from 15 up thru 20 to top of 
square to get X-1. 

X-2 is 1/2 inch above X. 

Draw a line from X-2 to X-1. 

Draw a line from X-2 to A-6. 

Shape from X-2 thru A-6 and down to C-7. 

Shape the back seam from X-1 thru 15 and 
out to A-5. 

Take out 1 inch V as diagram. 

Take out the same amount in pleats on back 
part at bottom as on forepart. 

Cut off the cuff and allow 14 inch for seam 
on each the top of cuff and bottom of 
pants. 

This same draft will cut knickerbocker trous- 
ers and instead of using the cuff at the 
bottom use a I14 inch band. 

This finishes the draft. 



RIDING BREECHES 




Outside se'm I'n'h 87 in. 
Inseam length __ 28 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Seat 38 in. 



Knee . ISi/o in. 

Small of knee _. 14 in. 

Calf 15 in. 

Ankle 9 in. 



Knee length ^ __ 23 in. 
Small of knee I'n'h 25 in. 

Calf length 29 in. 

Rise 9 in. 



Depression measure at waist 2 inches. 



'Mi 



Square down and out from 1. 

1 to 2 is the rise 9 inches. 

1 to 3 is the knee length 23 inches. 

1 to 4 is the small of knee length 25 inches. 

1 to 5 is the calf length 29 inches. 

1 to 6 is the outside seam length 37 inches. 

2 to 6 is the inseam measure 28 inches. 
Square out from 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. 

2 to 7 is 1/4 seat. 

7 to 8 is % of an inch. 

8 to 9 is 1-12 seat. 

9 to 10 is % of an inch. 

11 is half way between 9 and 2. 
Square up from 11 to get point 12. 

12 to 13 is 14 waist plus Vx. of an inch. 
12 to 14 is 14 waist plus 1/1 of an inch. 
Draw a line from 8 to 13. 

8 to 15 is % seat. 

Square down from 8 to get point 16. 

17 is half way between 6 and 16. 

18 is 1 inch from 17. 

Draw a Hne from 18 to point 11, this gives 

you points A, B, C, as diagram. 
A to A-1 is Vs knee. 
A to A-2 is Vi knee. 
B to B-1 is Vr small of knee. 
B to B-2 is 14 small of knee. 
C to C-1 is 1/8 calf. 
C to C-2 is 1/4. calf. 
18 to D is 1-3 inch the size of the ankle or 3 

inches. 
D to D-1 is half of the ankle measure or 41/2 

inches. 
2 to 2-1 is IV2 inches. 

Draw a Kne from 14 to 2-1 and from 2-1 to 
B-1 down through C-1 and D-1, this gives you 

the ease at A-1 for the bend at knee. 
Draw a line from 9 to A-2. 
Now shape from 13 through 1.5 to 10. 
Shape from 10 to B-2 extending 14 of an 

inch out at point A-2. 
Shape from A-2 through B-2 and C-2 down to 

D as diagram. 
Shape outside seam as diagram from 14 to 

2-1 to B-1, C-1 and down to D-1. 



BACK PART. 

Square out from points 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 10. 

Square up from point 8 to get point 20. 

20 to 21 is the incline measure at waist 2 

inches. 
Draw a line from 9 through 21 and extend 

the line 5 inches always above point 21, 

which gives you point 22. 
22 to 23 is i/i- w-aist plus 2 inches. 
2-1 to 2-2 is two inches. 
Draw a line from 2-2 through 23 to find point 

24. 
2-2 to 24 is the same distance as from 2-1 

to 14. 
Draw a line from 22 to 24 and take out a % 

inch V as diagram. 
10 to 25 is i/b seat. 
B-2 to B-3 is 1/2 of an inch. 
C-2 to C-3 is l/j of an inch. 
D to D-2 is 1 inch. 
Shape back part from line 22 to 21, down to 

25, shape from 25 to B-3, C-3 and down 

to D-2. 
From B-2 to B-1 and from B-3 to B-4 is the 

small of knee measure plus 1 inch. 
From C-2 to C-1 and from C-3 to C-4 is the 

calf measure plus 1 inch. 
From D to D-1 and from D-2 to D-3 is the 

ankle measure plus 3i/j inches. 
Take out l-^-'i. of an inch V in center of back 

part as diagram. 
Split the back part through at point 3 and 

A-2 take 1/0 of an inch out above A and 

i/j of an inch out below A, making 1 inch 

in all — take the inch out as diagram. 

When pattern is cut out add to each the 

above and bottom part where inch is 

taken out 14 of an inch for seams. 
Shape side seam from 24 to 2-2 and down to 

B-4 and C-4 and through to D-3. 
This finishes the draft. 



25 



■WR' 



REGULAR VEST 



/^S X 




The measurements are as follows : — 



Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



Scye depth __ 8' 4 in. 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full lengths _ 271/0 in. 



Side length ___ 23i/i in. 

Opening 11 in. 

Blade III/4, in. 



Overshouldcr 1()"' | in. Strap 11 '-j in. 



26 



Square down and out from A. 

A to A-A is Va breast plus " i of an inch. 

A to B is the same as A to A-A. 

A-A to C is i/_» breast. 

C to D is 21/2 inches. 

A to D gives the proportions for the scye 

depth. 
A-A to D gives the proportions for the strap 

measure. 
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. 
Square out from D and E. 
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. 
Draw a line from El to B to locate point D-1. 
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. 

D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 111 j. inches. 
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. 
D-5 is 11/2 inches in front of D-4. 
Square up from D-5. 
A to 1 is Vs breast plus •;4 of an inch. 
Square up from 1. 

D-D to X is i/a breast plus -Vj, of an inch. 
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 

1. 
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from 

D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. 
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 to 3. 
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 

or 18 inches. 
D-8 is 114 inches out from D-7. 
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. 
E-2 to E-3 is one half the waist measure or 

16 inches. 
E-4 is 11/4 inch out from E-3. 
Square down from E-3. 
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 
4 is 1/4 breast from 2. 



5 is 14 breast less 14 inch from A-1. 

6 is % of an inch below 5. 

X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8. 

X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-1. 

E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. 

E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. 

Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. 

X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. 

X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. 

Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. 

Shape top of back from A to 2. 

Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. 

Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru 
D-3. 

Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. 

A-3 is 1 H breast plus % of an inch up from 
A-1. 

10 is 2 inches below E-1. 

A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. 

A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. 

Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. 

A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. 

A-3 to A-5 is 1/2 inch. 

A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch. 

A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from A-1 to M. 

Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru to M. 

Shape from M down thru D-8 and E-4 to G-1 
as diagram. 

Shape stand and collar from A-6 down to M. 

Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace 
off the collar. 

Shape back from A down to 10 as diagram. 

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- 
ply the amount at D-3 measure on line 
drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you 
the strap measure plus •J4 of an inch for 
make up. 

Apply overshoulder measure plus -jt of an 
inch for make up on broken lines. 

This finishes the draft. 



-(i3=j 



27 



3" 



STOUT VEST 



AS X 




Breast 44 in. 

Waist 44 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : — 

Rcye depth __ 10 in. 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full length --281,4 in. 

Overshoulder 19-' t in. Strap 1^\A in. 



Side length -__ 24 in. 

Opening 13 in. 

Blade 131/4. in. 



28 



Square down and out from A. 
A to A-A is i/« breast plus ■Vj. of an inch. 
A to B is the same as A to A-A. 
A-A to C is 1/2 breast. 
C to D is 21/2 inches. 
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. 
Square out from D and E. 
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. 
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate point D-1 
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. 

D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 13 14 inches. 
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. 
D-5 is 11/2 inch in from D-4. 
Square up from D-5. 
A to 1 is Yn breast plus % of an inch. 
Square up from 1. 

D-D to X is 1/8 breast plus -^ 1. of an inch. 
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 
1. 

D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from 
D-5 to D-2 or 3 9-16 inches. 

Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. 

Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 

Draw a line from 2 to 3. 

D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 

or 22 inches. 
D-8 is II/4, inch out from D-7. 
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches less i/t of an inch for 

each waist is stout, in this case the waist 

is 4 inches stout, and the distance from 

E-1 to E-2 is 1 inch. 

E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 22 

inches. 
E-4 is 1 14 inch out from E-3. 
Square down from E-3. 
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 



4 is 14 breast from 2. 

5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. 

6 is •%, of an inch below 5. 

X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8. 

X-2 is i/j breast plus 1 inch from D-1. 

E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. 

E-6 is 14 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. 

Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. 

X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. 

X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. 

Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. 

Shape top of back from A to 2. 

Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. 

Shape point of arm scye from 6 down thru 

D-3. 
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. 
A-3 is ' )i breast plus 'j^ of an inch up from 

A-1. 

10 is 2 inches below E-1. 
A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. 
A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. 
Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. 
A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. 
A-3 to A-5 is 1/2 inch. 
A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch. 
A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from A-1 to M. 
Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru to M. 
Shape from M down thru D-8 and E-4 to G-1 
as diagram. 

Shape stand at A-6. 

Shape back from A down to 10 as diagram. 

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- 
ply the amount at D-3, measure on line 
drawn from D-3 to A-1. this gives you 
the strap measure plus -V^ of an inch for 
make up. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus ^ij. of an 
inch on broken lines. 

This finishes the draft. 



29 



DOUBLE BREASTED VEST WITH COLLAR 




The measurements are as follows : 



Breast 36 in 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



Scye depth _ _ 8V2 in. 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full length -.27 1/2 in. 



Side length -_-23i4 in. 

Opening 10 in. 

Blade II14 in. 



Overshoulder 1(5 •' | in. Strap 11 ' .j in. 



30 



-SL^ 



Square down and out from A. 

A to A-A is 1/8 breast plus -ji of an inch. 

A to B is the same as from A to A-A. 

A-A to C is 1/2 breast. 

C to D is 21/2 inches. 

A-A to D is the strap measure IIV2 inches. 

A to D is the scye depth 8i/> inches. 

A to E is the waist length 17 inches. 

Square out from D and E. 

E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates 

point D-1. 
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. 

D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 111 4. inches. 
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 
D-4 is halfway between D-1 and D-3. 
D-5 is 11/2 inch in front of D-4. 
Square up from D-5. 
A to 1 is 1/8 breast plus •;4. of an inch. 
Square up from 1. 

D-D to X is i/jj breast plus % of an inch. 
Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 

1. 
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of the back 

from D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. 
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 to 3. 
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 

or 18 inches. 
D-8 is 1/0 inch out from D-7. 
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. 
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16 

inches. 
E-4 is 1/2 inch out from E-3. 
Square down from E-3. 
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 

4 is I/4. breast from 2. 

5 is 14 breast less 14. inch from A-1. 

6 is % of an inch below 5. 

X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 14. inch in from D-8. 
X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-1. 
E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 14 inch in from E-4. 
E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-1. 
Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. 



X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. 

X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. 

Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. 

Shape top of back from A to 2. 

Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. 

Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru 
D-3. 

Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. 

A-3 is 1 a breast plus % of an inch up from 
A-1. 

10 is 2 inches below E-1. 

A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. 

A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. 

Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. 

A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. 

A-3 to A-5 is V-i inch. 

A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch. 

A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. 

Line D-8 and E-4 is center vest front. 

Draw a hne from A-1 thru M to front of vest. 

The top button is 6 inches down from M and 
they are 3 inches apart. 

The top button is 21/4 inches back from cen- 
ter vest line. 

The center button is IV2 inch back from cen- 
ter vest line, draw a line from the top 
button thru the center button to get the 
space of the bottom button extend out 
in front of center vest line % of an inch 
more than you come back from the cen- 
ter vest line for the buttons and shape 
the front from A-5 thru A-4 and M and 
on thru to G-1. 

Shape stand and collar from A-6 down to 
front of vest. 

Shape the back from A down to 10 as dia- 
gram. 

Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and 
trace off the collar. 

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- 
ply the amount at D-3, measure on line 

drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the 
strap measure plus -j^ of an inch for 
make up. 

Apply overshoulder measure plus % of an 
inch for make up on broken lines. 

This finishes the draft. 



-d^ 



31 



CLERICAL VEST 




The measurements are as follows :- 



Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



Scye depth ^_ 8i/o in. 
Waist lenpfth 17 in. 
Full length 27 in. 



Side length ___ 231/. in. 

Blade llVi in. 

Strap 111/2 in. 



Over shoulder 1(5 "• 1. in. Collar 141/^ in. 



Square down and out from A. 

A to A-A is i/h breast plus •' ^ of an inch. 

A to B is the same as from A to A-A. 

A-A to C is 1/2 breast. 

C to D is 21/2 inches. 

A to E is the waist length 17 inches. 

Square out from D and E. 

E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate D-1. 

D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. 

D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure llVi. inches. 

Square up from D-3 to get point D-D. 

D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. 

D-5 is 11/0 inch in from D-4. 

Square up from D-5. 

A to 1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. 

Square up from 1. 

D-D to X is 1 8 breast plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 

1. 
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from 

D-5 to D-2 or 314 inches. 
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 to 3. 
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 

or 18 inches. 
D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. 
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. 
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16 

inches. 
E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. 
Square down from E-3. 
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 
A-2 is Vs breast plus 1/2 inch down from A-1. 
Square out from A-2. 

4 is 14 breast from 2. 

5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. 

6 is % of an inch below 5. 

X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8. 
X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-1. 
E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. 
E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. 
Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. 
X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. 
X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. 
Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. 



Shape top of back from A to 2. 

Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. 

Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru 
D-3. 

Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. 

A-3 is Vij breast plus 1 inch up from A-1. 

10 is 2 inches below E-1. 

A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. 

A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. 

Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. 

Shape from A down to 10. 

Shape neck from A-1 to the front as diagram. 

Apply collar size from A to 2 and from A-1 
down plus %. of an inch to A-4. 

A-5 is 1 inch from A-4. 

Shape from A-5 thru D-8 and E-4 down to 
G as diagram. 

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- 
ply this amount at D-3 ; measure on line 
drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you 
the strap measure plus 1 inch. 

Apply the over shoulder measure on broken 
lines plus % of an inch. 

Diagram of collar is shown on vest front. 

THE COLLAR. 

Measure the full size of neck hole, in this 
case it is 8 inches and deduct -Ji of an 
inch for seams which leaves 714 collar 
size and draft as follows : 

Draw a straight line from A. 

A to B is 714 inches. 

Square down from A half the collar size 
which is 3-% inches to C. 

Square over from C and down from B to get 
D. 

D to E is collar width 1 ' 1. inch. 

A to F is collar width I14 inch. 

Square out from F as diagram. 

Place your collar size on D and line F to get 
G. 

Draw a line from D to G. 

Square up from G the width of collar to get 
point H. 

Draw a line from H to E and shape as dia- 
gram. 

This finishes the draft. 



Mti. 



33 



FULL DRESS VEST 




Breast 38 in. 

Waist 34 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : — 

Scye depth __ Syis in. 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full length __28 in. 

Over shoulder 17 y^ in- Strap 12 in. 



Blade 11% in. 

Side length _ _ 24 in. 
Opening 18 in. 



34 



M 



Square down and out from A. 

A to A-A is Vs breast plus % of an inch. 

A to B is the same as from A to A-A. 

A-A to C is 1/2 breast. 

C to D is 21/0 inches. 

A-A to D gives the proportions for the strap 

measure. 
A to D gives the proportions for the scye 

depth. 
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. 
Square out from D and E. 
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. 
Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates 

point D-1. 
D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. 

D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 11%. inches. 
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 
D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. 
D-5 is IV2 inch in front of D-4. 
Square up from D-5. 
A to 1 is 1/3 breast plus % of an inch. 
Square up from 1. 

D-D to X is % breast plus '-''/i. of an inch. 
Draw a line from X to A to locate point 2 

above 1. 
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from 

D-5 to D-2 or 3 7-16 inches. 
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 to 3. 
D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 

or 19 inches. 
D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. 
E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. 
E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 17 

inches. 
E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. 
Square down from E-3. 
Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 

4 is 14 breast from 2. 

5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. 



6 is % of an inch below 5. 

X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-8. 

X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-1. 

E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-4. 

E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-1. 

Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. 

X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. 

X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. 

Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. 

Shape top of back from A to 2. 

Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. 

Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru 
D-3. 

Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. 

A-3 is i/a breast plus % of an inch up from 
A-1. 

10 is 2 inches below E-1. 

A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. 

A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. 

Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. 

A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. 

A-3 to A-5 is 1 inch. 

A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. 

Square back from M 1-6 breast to locate M-1. 

Draw a line from A-4 to M-1. 

Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down to M as 
diagram. 

Shape stand and collar from A-5 down to M 
as diagram. 

Shape from M to E-4 and down to G-1. 

Shape the back from A down to 10. 

Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace 
off the collar. 

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- 
ply the amount at D-3 and measure on 
line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives 
you the strap measure plus % of an inch 
for make up. 

Aiply over shoulder measure on broken lines 
plus -^^ I of an inch for make up. 

This finishes the draft. 



IIl 



35 



REGULAR SLEEVE FOR SACK 
COAT AND OVERCOAT 







36 



"W 



The measurements are as follows : — • 

Arm scye 18 inches. Inseam length 18 inches. 

Draft as follows : 

Square down and back from A. 

A to B is 14 the arm scye. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

B to D is the inseam length. 

E is half way between B and D. 

Square out and back from B, E and D. 

B to B-1 is 114, inch. 

E to E-1 is 34 of an inch. 

D to D-1 is V/i inch. 

Draw a line from B-1 to E-1 and from E-1 

to D-1 and shape. 
C to A-1 is 1/2 the arm scye. 
Draw a line from C to A-1. 
X is half way between C and A-1. 
Square up 14 the arm scye from X to locate 

X-1. 
Draw a line from X-1 to C and from X-1 to 

A-1. 
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2 and E-2. 
Square up from line B-1 and B-2 thru X to 

locate X-2 and B-3. 
Shape from A-1 to X-2 and down thru C to 

B-1. 
A-1 to A-2 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from A-2 to B-3. 
B-4 is 114 inch back from B. 
D-2 is 114 inch back from D. 
Draw a line from B-4 to D-2 to locate E-3. 
E-3 to E-4 is 34 of an inch. 
Shape from B-4 thru E-4 to D-2. 
Shape from A-2 down thru B-3 to B-4. 
E-2 to E-5 is % of an inch. 
D to D-3 is the cuff size or 13 on the halves. 
Square down I14 inch from D-3 to get D-4. 
Draw a line from D-4 to D and shape. 
Draw a line from A-1 to E-5 and from E-5 to 

D-4 and shape. 
Draw a line from A-2 to E-5 and shape. 
This finishes the draft. 






37 



-m/r 



The measurements are as follows: 

Arm scye 22 inches. 

Inseam 18 inches. 

Front shoulder height 10l^ in. 

Front shoulder width 5% in. 

Full shoulder width 7l/_> in. 

Back shoulder width 614. in. 

Back shoulder height 714. in. 

Under arm scye measure of sleeve 10 in. 

Square down and in from A. 

A to B is the front shoulder height. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

C to D is the inseam length. 

E is half way between C and D. 

F is 14 the arm scye measure up from C. 

Square back from F, C, E and D. 

Square out from C, E and D. 

B to F-1 is 1/2 the arm scye measure. 

Draw a line from B to F-1. 

B-1 is half way between B and F-1. 

Square up 14 the arm scye measure from 

B-1 on line B and F-1 to locate X. 
Draw a line from X to F-1. 
Square up and down from F-1 to locate C-1, 

E-1 and D-1. 
Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1 to 

locate C-2 and X-1. 
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 

and X-3. 
F-1 to A-A is the back shoulder height. 
Square in from A-A. 
X-1 to X-4 is the front shoulder width. 
X-1 to X-5 is the back shoulder width. 
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-1 to line A to 

locate A-1. 
A-1 to A-2 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate X-6. 
X-6 to X-7 is 1/2 inch. 
Sweep from X-5 pivoting on X-1 back to line 

A-A to locate A-3. 



A-3 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. 

Apply the full shoulder width measure plus 
1 inch from X-7 to X-3 and take out half 
the amount on each side of X-1 that the 
distance from X-7 to X-3 is larger than 
the full shoulder width measure with 
the inch added which locates points X-8 
and X-9. 

C-1 to C-3 is the same as from C-2 to C-1. 

Draw a line from X-3 to C-3. 

C to C-4 is 11/2 inch. 

Square down from C-4 to locate D-2. 

Shape from C-4 to D-2 as diagram. 

D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from D-3 to D. 

D to D-4 is the width of cuff or 71/2 inches. 

Shape from D-4 to D-2. 

Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. 

D-1 to D-5 is the same as from D-1 to D less 
11/2 inch. 

Draw a line from D-5 to D-3. 

D-3 to D-6 is the same as from D-3 to D-4. 

Draw a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape. 

Shape from A-1 to X-7 and down thru B to 
C-4. 

Shape from A-3 to X-3 and down as diagram. 

Apply the back shoulder height measure 
from A-3 down to locate 0. 

Apply the under arm scye measure plus 2 
inches from B to C-4 and place this 
amount on O and measure down to lo- 
cate C-5. 

Shape from C-5 to D-5. 

D-7 is half way between D and D-4. 

E-2 is half way between E and E-1. 

Shape from A-2 down thru X-9, keep 14 inch 
back of points C, E-2 and D-7. 

Shape from A-4 down thru X-8, keep 14 inch 
in front of points C-2, E-2 and D-7. The 
1/2 inch is for seams and must be allow- 
ed after cutting out the pattern, if seam 
is wanted in the back of sleeve make 
the changes as per broken lines. 

This finishes the draft. 



jm: 



39 



ta?" 



SOLID RAGLAN SLEEVE 



•-4- OS 




40 



IK 



The measurements are as follows: — 

Arm scye 22 inches. 

Inseam length 18 inches. 

Front shoulder width 5% inches. 

Under arm scye measure 10 inches. 

Square down from A. 

A to B is i/j. the arm scye measure. 

C is 1 inch up from B. 

B to D is the inseam length. 

E is half way between B and D. 

Square back from A, B, E and D. 

Square out from B and D. 

B to B-1 is 11/2 inch. 

Square down from B-1 to locate D-1. 

Shape from B-1 to D-1. 

C to A-1 is 1/0 the arm scye. 

Draw a line from C to A-1. 

X is half way between C and A-1. 

Square up from X on line C and A-1 Vi the 

arm scye to get X-1. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A-1. 
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2, E-1 and 

D-2. 
D-3 is 2 inches below D-2. 
Draw a line from D-3 to D. 
D to D-4 is the width of cuff or 7y-> inches. 
Shape from D-4 to D-1. 
Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. 



D-2 to D-5 is the same as from D to D-2 less 

11/2 inch. 
Draw a line from D-5 to D-3. 
D-3 to D-6 is the same as from D-3 to D-4. 
Draw a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape. 
Square up from line B and B-2 thru X to lo- 
cate X-2 and B-3. 
B-2 to B-4 is the same as from B-2 to B-3. 
Square up 1 inch from A-1 to locate A-2 for 

the back sleeve notch. 
Square back li/> inch from X-2 to locate X-3. 

X-2 to X-4 is the front shoulder width — 

less 1/2 inch. 
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-3 to the front. 
X-4 to X-5 is 1/2 inch. 
X-5 to X-6 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X-5 to C. 
Shape from X-6 down to C and B-1. 
Draw a line from X-5 to A-2. 
Draw a line from B-4 to A-2. 
Shape from X-5 to A-2 and down as diagram. 
Apply the under arm scye measure plus 3 

inches from C to B-1 and A-2 down to 

B-5. 
Shape from B-5 to D-6. 
Shape from D-5 to D-6. 
This finishes the draft. 



41 



BALMACANN SLEEVE 




The meusurements are as follows: — 



Arm scye 22 inches. 

Inseam 18 inches. 

Front shoulder heij^ht 101 i. inches. 

Front under arm scj'e length 5 inches. 



Front shoulder width 5'"' i inches. 
Back shoulder height 7' |, inches. 
Back shoulder width 6V! inches. 
Back under arm scye length 9' o inches. 






Full shoulder width 7V1> inches. 

Draft as follows : 

Square down and in from A. 

A to B is the front shoulder height. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

C to D is 11/2 inch. 

C to E is the inseam length. 

F is half way between E and C. 

G is 14. the arm scye measure up from C. 

Square back from G, C, D, F and E. 

B to G-1 is 1/0 the arm scye measure. 

Draw a line from B to G-1. 

B-1 is half way between B and G-1. 

Square up 14 the arm scye measure from B-1 

on line B and G-1 to locate X. 
Draw a line from X to G-1. 
Square up and down from G-1 to locate C-1, 

F-1 and E-1. 
Square out from D and E. 
E to E-2 is the cuff size 16 inches on the 

halves. 
E-3 is half way between E and E-2. 
E to E-4 is the same as from E to E-3. 
Square up from E-4 to locate D-1. 
E-1 to E-5 is the same as from E-1 to E-2. 
E-5 to E-6 is the same as from E-2 to E-3. 
Square up from E-6 to locate D-2. 
Square down IV2 inch from E-2 to get 1. 
Draw a line from 1 to E and shape from 1 to 

E dropping at E-4 as diagram. 
Draw a line from F-1 to 1 and shape. 
Square down IV2 inch from E-5 to get 2. 
Draw a line from F-1 to 2 and shape. 
Drop below E-6 the same as below E-4 and 

shape to 2. 
F-2 is half way between F and F-1. 
Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1 to 

locate X-1 and C-2. 
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 

and X-3. 
G-1 to A-A is the back shoulder height. 
Square in from A-A. 



X-1 to A-1 is the front shoulder width. 

X-1 to A-2 is the back shoulder width. 

Sweep from A-1 to line A, pivoting on X-1 to 
locate A-3. 

Draw a line from A-3 to B to locate X-4. 

X-4 to X-5 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape from A-3 down thru X-5, B and thru 
to D-1. 

B to D-3 is the front under arm scye length 
plus 1/2 inch. 

Draw a line from D-3 to E-4. 

A-3 to A-4 is 1 inch. 

Sweep from A-2 pivoting on X-1 to line A-A 
to locate A-5. 

A-5 to A-6 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw a line from X-2 to D-2. 

Shape from A-5 down thru X-2 to line D-2. 

Apply the back shoulder height from A-5 
down to locate 0. 

Apply the back under arm scye length from 
down to D-4 plus II/2 inch. 

Draw a line from D-4 to E-6. 

Measure the distance from X-5 to X-2 which 
in this case is 9 inches, add 1 inch to the 
full shoulder width measure, which 
makes it 8V2 inches, apply the 8V2 inch- 
es from X-5 to X-2 and take the V2 inch 
out at X-1 as diagram 14 inch on each 
side of X-1, which gives you points X-6 
and X-7. 

Shape from A-4 down thru X-7 and keep V2 
inch back of C-2, F-2 and E-3. 

Shape from A-6 down thru X-6 and keep 1/2 
inch in front of C-2, F-2 and E-3. 

Cut the pattern thru from A-6 down to the 
cuff and paste a piece of paper on the 
fore part of the sleeve, then lay the 
pattern together the same as before it 
was cut and trace off the fore part from 
line A-4 down. 

This finishes the draft. 



.iH. 



43 



REGULAR SACK COAT 




Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows: — 

Scye depth _ 8 1/2 in. 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full length ^_30 in. 

Seat 37 in. 



Blade lll^ in. 

Overshoulder -16% in. 
Strap 111/2 in. 



Square down and out from A. 

A to A-A is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 

A to B is the same as from A to A-A. 

A-A to C is 1/2 breast. 

C to D is 21/0 inches always. 



The above from A-A to D gives the propor- 
tions for the strap measure. 

A to D is the proportions for the scye depth. 

A to E is the waist length. 

A to F is 6 inches. 



"-*'" 



44 



A to G is the full length. 

Square out from D, E, F and G. 

E to E-1 is the waist depression. 

E-2 is half way between E and E-1. 

Square down from E-2 to locate F-1 and G-1. 

Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1 . 

D-2 is 114 inch in from D-1. 

A to 1 is i/s breast plus 1 inch. 

Square up from 1. 

D-2 to D-.3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 

D-D to X is i/y breast plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 

1. 
D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. 
D-5 is li/> inch in from D-4. 
Square up and down from D-.5 to locate points 

E-3, F-2, G-2. 
D-6 is % of an inch below D-5. 
D-7 is % of an inch below D-3. 
Draw a line from D-7 to D-6. 
D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve 

notch. 
D-9 is 1/2 the width of back from D-5 to D-2 

in front of D-3. 
Square up from D-9 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate point 3. 
Draw a line from 2 through 3 e.xtending I/2 

inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
5 is 1-12 breast up from D-6. 
Square out in front of 5, % of an inch to lo- 
cate 6. 
E-4 is the same distance from E-3 as from 

E-1 to E-2. 
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4. 
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. 
Shape from A to 2 and from 4 to 14 inch in 

front of 5 as diagram. 
Shape from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4, F-2 

and G-2 as diagram. 
D-10 is one half the breast measure out from 

D-2. 
D-11 is 214 inches out from D-10. 
E-1 to E-5 is 2 inches half the amount that 

waist is smaller than the breast. 
E-5 to E-6 is half the waist measure. 



E-6 to E-7 is 134 inches. 

Draw a line from E-7 up through D-11. 

Square down from E-7 to locate G-3. 

G-3 to G-4 is 3 inches. 

G-3 to G-5 is 3 inches. 

F-2 to F-3 is the same as from F to F-1 plus 

114. inches. 
Draw a line from E-3 through F-3. 
Shape the side seam as diagram. 
E-3 to G-6 is the same as from E-4 to G-2. 
Draw a line from G-6 to G-4. 
A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 
Square out from A-2 to locate A-3. 
Go down 91/2 inches from A-3 to get bottom 

of roll. 
A-4 is 114 inch in front of A-1. 
Draw a line from the bottom of roll up 

through A-4 and from A-1 back on the 

opposite side of square. 
Shape from A-1 to A-3. 
A-1 to 7 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/0 

inch. 
8 is 1/2 inch below 7. 
Shape from 8 to A-1. 
Shape from 8 through D-8 down. 
Shape from 6 down. 
The arm scye measure is 18 14 inches. 
Come up 14 the arm scye from D-6 to get 

point X-X for the back sleeve notch. 
A-1 to A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 14 

inch. 
A-6 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line at 

lapel. 
Drop your collar % of an inch below A-6 

as diagram and shape from A-1 down. 
Square up from A-5 and shape the collar 

and lapel. 
Shape from bottom of lapel down through 

E-7 and G-5. 
Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch 

on broken lines. 
Apply the strap measure by measuring the 

amount from A to 2 and placing the 

amount on D-3 and measure up to A-1 

plus 1 inch. 
This finishes the draft. 



45 



THREE BUTTON D. B. SACK COAT 




Breast 38 in. 

Waist 34 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth _. 8"h in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

FuU length --301/. in. 

Seat 39 in. 



Blade 11%. in. 

Overshoulder -IT'^ in. 
Strap 12 in. 



4G 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. \ 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 114. inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch up from X 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch in from A. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. 

C-5 is IV2 inch in from C-4. 

Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, 

E-2 and F-2. 
G is ■■; 4. of an inch down from C-5. 
G-1 is 3,4 of an inch down from C-3. 
Draw a line from G to G-1. 
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 

notch. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to 

C-2 in front of C-3 in this case it is 3% 

inches. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 through 3 extending 1/2 

inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
6 is 1-12 breast up from G. 
Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. 
Shape from A to 2. 
Shape from 4 to i'4. inch in front of 6. 



A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 

inch. 
8 is 1/2 iiich below 5. 
Shape from 8 to A-1. 
Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. 
Shape from 7 down. 
C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 
C-7 to C-8 is 414 inches. 
D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. 
D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 
D-5 to D-6 is 414 inches. 
Draw a line from D-6 up through C-8. 
A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus ^^ of an inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. 
D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. 
Draw a line from i/4 inch back of 7 to D-7. 
Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. 
Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2. 
E-2 to E-3 is the same as E to E-1 plus 1V4 

inch. 

Draw a line from D-3 through E-3 down. 

Shape the side seams. 

D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. 

Square down from D-5 to locate F-4. 

F-5 is 3 inches in front of F-4. 

Square down 2V2 inches from F-5 to locate 
F-6. 

Draw a line from F-3 to F-6. 

Draw a line from D-6 to F-6. 

A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. 

The roll is 13 inches long or 13 inches be- 
low line A-2. 

Draw a line from A-3 to bottom of lapel. 

A-4 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. 

Shape lapel and front as diagram. 

Apply over shoulder and strap measure the 
same as on the regular sack coat. 

The sleeve and collar are also the same. 

This finishes the draft. 



47 



m 



STOUT MANS SACK COAT 




Breast 44 in. 

Waist 44 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 10 in. 

Waist length __ 17 in. 

Full length ___ 30 in. 

Seat 45 in. 



Blade 131/4. in. 

Overshoulder -19% in. 
Strap 131/2 in- 



^ 



48 



:ii: 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vs breast plus •' j. of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates 

point C-1. 
C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. 
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 
Square up from C-3 to locate X. 
X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch up from X. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A. 
1 is % breast plus 1 inch in from A. 
Square up from A to get 2. 
C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. 
C-5 is 11/2 inch in from C-4. 
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, 

E-2 and F-2. 
G is -j^ of an inch down from C-5. 
G-1 is •'■ V of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from G to G-1. 
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 

notch. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 

to C-2 in front of C-3 or 3% inches in 

this case. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1 . 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch 

out from 3 to get point 4. 
6 is 1-12 breast up from G. 
Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. 
Shape from A to 2. 

Shape from 4 to Vi inch in front of 6. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/0 

inch. 
8 is 1/2 inch below 5 . 



Shape from 8 to A-1 as diagram. 

Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. 

Shape from 7 down. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. 

D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less Vi inch for each 

inch the waist is larger than normal. 
D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 
D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches. 
Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. 
A-1 to A-2 is ViJ breast plus •'? i. of an inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Draw a line from top of line C-5 to the front 

of line A-2 and shape the neck from A-1 

to the front. 
D-3 to D-7 is 1/2 the amount from D-1 to D-2. 
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7. 
Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. 
Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2. 
E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus 

114 inch. 
Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. 
Shape the side seam. 

D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. 
Square down from D-6 to locate F-4. 
F-4 to F-5 is 3 inches. 
F-4 to F-6 is 3 inches. 
Draw a line from F-3 to F-5. 
Shape from D-6 down thru F-6 as diagram. 
A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. 
The length of lapel is 9 inches. 
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel to A-3. 
A-4 is half the length of lapel. 
Lay your square on A-4 and A-3 and draw a 

line back from A-3 on the two sides of 

the square. 
A-1 to A-5 is V2 inch more than from A to 2. 
Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and 

lapel. 
The arm scye is 22 inches. 
G to XX is 14 the arm scye measure for back 

sleeve notch. 
Apply overshoulder measure plus 1 inch on 

broken lines. 
Apply strap measure from A to 2 and from 

C-3 to A-1 plus 1 inch. 
This finishes the draft. 



49 



■'.'■T 



SACK COAT FOR STOOPING AND SWAY 
TO FRONT FORM 




Breast 38 in. 

Waist 36 in. 

Waist dep's'n 1-2 1/2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth __ 914 in. 

Wai.st length 17 in. 

Full length __30 in. 

Seat 40 in. 



Blade 12ii in. 

Overshoulder .18 in. 
Strap 11''54 in. 



50 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. 

C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 

38 coat or 11% inches in this case. 
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure 121/4. inches. 
Square up from C-3 to locate X. 
X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch up frum X. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A. 
1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch in front of A. 
Square up from 1 to locate 2. 
C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. 
C-5 is 11/2 inch plus the difference from K to 

C-3 in front of C-4. 
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, 

E-2 and F-2. 
G is % of an inch below C-5. 
G-1 is -''/i. of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from G to G-1. 
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 

notch. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 

to C-2 in front of K or 3"'a inches in this 

case. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Shape from A to 2. 
Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the 

amount on C-3 and measure up the 

amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch 

to locate A-2. 
Draw a line from A-2 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 to 3. 
6 is 1-12 breast up from G. 
Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. 



Shape from 3 to 14 inch in front of 6. 

A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 3 less 1/2 
inch. 

8 is 1/2 inch below 5. 

Shape from 8 to A-2. 

Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. 

Shape from 7 dowr. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. 

D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less 1,4 inch for each 
inch waist is larger than norma,l (\v 
11/2 inches. 

D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 

D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from D-6 up through C-8. 

Square down from D-6 to locate H. 

H to H-1 is 3 inches. 

H to H-2 is 3 inches. 

A-2 to A-3 is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 

Square out from A-3. 

Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. 

D-3 to D-7 is one half the amount from D-1 
to D-2. 

Draw a line from l^ inch back of 7 to D-7. 

Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. 

Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2. 

E-2 to E-3 is 114 inch. You can see by the 
diagram of the stooping form and sway 
to the front form that the yard stick 
is 1 inch away from the seat, therefore 
you do not add the amount from E to E-1 
in with E-3. 

Draw a line from D-3 through E-3 down. 

Shape the side seams. 

D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. 

Draw a line from F-3 to H-1. 

A-4 is 11/4. inch in front of A-1. 

The lapel is 9 inches below line A-3 at top 
button. 

Draw a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. 

A-5 is 2 inches in front of the crease line. 

Shape lapel and front as diagram. 

The sleeve and collar are the same as the re- 
gular sack coat. 

Take 1/2 inch out of the back as per broken 
lines. 

This finishes the draft. 



51 



I — as- 

a. 



-^m 



SACK COAT FOR ERECT FORM WITH FULL CHEST, 
SMALL WAIST AND BACK 




The measurements are as follows : — 



Breast 38 in. 

Waist 33 in. 

Waist dep's'n 2i/o-l in. 



Scye depth __ 8I/2 in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length __30 in. 

Seat 39. 



Blade ±^ 

Overshoulder -17 
Strap 121/2 in. 



111/4 in. 
14 in. 






52 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression 2V2 inches 

less the 1 inch at the blade or IV2 inch 

depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. 

C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 38 
coat which is 11% inches. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure 11^4 inches. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch up from X. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

1 is Va breast plus 1 inch in from A. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. 

C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch for the regular coat, 
but in this case deduct the difference 
from C-3 to K from the IV2 inch to get 
point C-5. 

Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, 
E-2 and F-2. 

G is 34 of an inch below C-5. 

G-1 is % of an inch below C-3. 

Draw a line from G to G-1. 

G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 
notch. 

C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 
to C-2 in front of K or SVa inches. 

Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 

Shape from A to 2. 

Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the 
amount on C-3 and measure up the 
amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch 
to locate A-2. Draw a line from A-2 
to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 
thru 3 extending 1/2 '"ch out from 3 to 
get point 4. 



6 is 1-12 breast up from G. 

Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. 

Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front of 6. 

A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 
inch. 

8 is 1/2 inch below 5. 

Shape from 8 to A-2. 

Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. 

Shape from 7 down. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. 

D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches plus 14 inch for each 
inch that the waist is smaller than nor- 
mal or 2 i/t inches. 

D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 

D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. 

Square down from D-6 to locate H. 

H to HI is 3 inches. 

H to H-2 is 3 inches. 

A-2 to A-3 is Vh breast plus % of an inch. 

Square out from A-3. 

Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. 

D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. 

Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7. 

Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. 

Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2. 

E-2 to E-3 is 1 inch taken off the depression 
measure and the amount from E to E-1 
plus 114 inch or 3 inches. 

Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. 

Shape the side seam. 

D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. 

Draw a line from F-3 to H-1. 

A-4 is 114 inch in front of A-1. 

The lapel is 10 inches below line A-3. 

Draw a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. 

A-5 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. 

Shape lapel and front as diagram. 

The sleeve and collar are the same as for the 
regular sack coat. 

Apply over shoulder measure the same as 
for regular sack coat. 

This finishes the draft. 



-i?=H 



53 



MILITARY COAT 




Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : — 

Scye depth __ S'/j in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length __30 in. 

Seat 37. Collar size 14V2- 



Blade . llVi. in. 

Overshoulder -16'^'\. in. 
Strap . 111/2 in. 



Sciuare down and out from A. 
A to A-A is Vji breast plus -^ 1 of an inch. 
A to B is the same as from A to A-A. 
A-A to C is 1/2 breast. 
C to D is 21/2 inches always. 
The above from A-A to D gives you the pro- 
portions for the strap measure which is 111/. 

inches in this case. 
I'rom A to D gives you the proportions for 

the .scye depth, which in this case is 

8'/2 inches. 
A to E is the waist length 17 inches. 
V is 6 1/2 inches below E. 



A to G is the full length. 

Square out from D, E, F and G. 

E to E-1 is the waist depression. 

E-2 is half way between E and E-1. 

Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1. 

G-1 is the same distance from G as E-2 is 

from E. 
Draw a line from E-2 to G-1 and tind point 

F-1 on line F. 
D-1 toD-2 is 114 inch. 
D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure. 
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. 
The proportions for the blade measure is I/2 

breast and 3I/2 inches from D-1 to D-3. 



54 



D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. 

D-5 is 11/2 inch in from D-4. 

Square up from D-5. 

D-6 is % of an inch below D-5. 

D-7 is % of an inch below D-3. 

Draw a line from D-3 to D-7 and from D-5 to 

D-6. 
Draw a line from D-6 to D-7. 
D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve 

notch. 
D-9 is one half breast out from D-1. 
D-10 is half way between D-1 and D-9. 
D-2 to D-11 is one half the breast measure. 
E-1 to E-3 is 2 inches. 
E-3 to E-4 is one half the waist measure. 
D-3 to D-12 is one half the width of back 

from D-5 to D-2 or 314, inches in this 

case. 
Square up from D-12 to get A-1. 
A to 1 is Vf! breast plus 1 inch. 
Square up from 1. 
D-D to X is V« breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X to A to locate point 2. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14 inch 

out from 3 to get point 4. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less % 

of an inch. 

6 is 1/2 inch below 5. 

Shape from 6 to A-1 as diagram. 
Shape from A to 2. 

7 is half way between 3 and D-6. 

8 is % of an inch out from 7. 

Square a line from D-9 down to bottom of 

coat which locates point E-5 at waist and F-2 
at hip. 

F-2 to F-3 is 11/2 inch. 

E-5 to E-6 is 1 inch. 

Shape from D-9 to E-5 thru F-3 and down. 

Shape from D-9 to E-6 thru F-2 and down. 

E-7 is half way between E-6 and D. 

Square down from E-7 to get point F-4 on 
line F. 

F-4 to F-5 is IV4 inch. 

E-8 is 1 inch in front of E-7. 

Shape from 7 thru D-10 and down to E-7. 

Shape from 7 thru D-10 down thru E-8 and 
F-5. 

Measure your back length from E-7 to bot- 
tom and apply this measure at E-8 down 
to get point G-2. 

Shape arm scye from 6 down thru D-8 to 
bottom as diagram. 



Shape back of arm scye from 4 to 7 and from 

8 down thru D-9 to bottom. 
A-1 to A-2 is i/f) breast plus 1/2 inch. 
Square out from A-2. 

D-11 to D-13 is li/t inch for center of front. 
E-4 to E-9 is 114 inch for center of front. 
Square down from E-9 to locate points F-6 

and G-3. 
Draw a line from E-9 thru D-13 and up. 
D-13 to D-14 is 1% inches for stand. 
E-9 to E-10 is 1% inches for stand. 
G-3 to G-4 is •■?'!. of an inch. 
G-3 to G-5 is 21/4. inches. 
F-6 to F-7 is 21/2 inches. 
Measure off your seat plus li/> inch for ease 

from F-7. 
Draw a line from G-2 to G-5. 
Draw a line from E-10 thru G-4 down. 
Draw a line from E-10 up thru D-14. 
Shape neck from A-1 to front of coat as dia- 
gram. 
Measure your back from A to 2 and apply 

this amount at A-1 and measure front of 

neck from A-1 down half the collar size 

plus 114 inch for seams and make up to 

get point A-3. 
A-4 is 1% inches from A-3. 
Shape your front as diagram. 
The overshoulder and strap measures are 

applied the same as for a regular sack 

coat. 

THE COLLAR. 
Measure the full size of neck hole, which in 

this case is 8 1/2 inches, and deduct % of 

an inch for seams which gives you a 

neck hole of 7'; j, inches and draft as 

follows : 
Draw a straight line from A. 
A to B is the collar size 7% inches. 
Square down from A half the collar size or 

3y}{ inches to C. 
Square out from C and down from B to get 

point D. 
D to E is the width of collar 1% inches. 
A to F is the width of collar 1% inches. 
Square out from F as diagram. 
Place your collar size on point D and line F 

to get point G. 
Square up from G the width of collar to get 

H. 
Drav.- a line from H to E and shape the collar 

as diagram. 
This finishes the draft. 



55 



REGULAR CHESTERFIELD OVER COAT WITH FLY FRONT 




Breast 40 in. 

Waist :]() in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows :- 

Scye depth ._ 914 in. 
Waist length 17 '.j in. 
Full length -42 in. 



Blade 12 1/4. in. 

Overshoulder -18 '4. in. 
Strap 121/2 in. 



56 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vii breast plus •' |. of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Sciuare out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 11/4. inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X-1 is Vk breast plus 1 inch up from X. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

1 is Vf! breast measure plus 1 inch in from A. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. 

C-5 is 11/2 inch from C-4. 

Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3. 

E-2 and F-2. 
G is 1%. inch below C-5. 
G-1 is 1%. inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from G to G-1. 
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 

notch. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 

to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Shape from A to 2. 
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and 

apply the amount on C-3. 
Measure up on the line drawn from C-3 to 

A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending "''1 of 

an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
6 is -Vj. of an inch in front of C-5. 
Shape from 4 to V|. inch in front of C-5. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less '/•; 

inch. 
8 is V2 inch below 5. 
Shape from 8 to A-1. 



Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. 

Shape from 6 down. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-8 is 314 inches out from C-7. 

D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. 

D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 

D-5 to D-6 is 314 inches. 

Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. 

Square down from D-6 to locate H. 

H to H-1 is 2 inches. 

H to H-2 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from D-6 thru H-2. 

A-1 to A-2 is Ij! breast plus ■Ji. of an inch. 

Square out from A-2. 

Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. 

D-3 to D-7 is half the amount from D-1 to 

D-2. 
Draw a line from V\. inch back of 6 to D-7. 
Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. 
Shape from D-7 thru E-2 down as diagram. 
E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus 

11/,, inch, 
Draw a line from D-7 thru E-3 down, and 

shape as diagram. 
D-7 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. 
Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape. 
A-3 is 114. inch in front of A-1. 
The roll is 10i/> inches below line A-2. 
Draw a line from the bottom of roll thru A-3 

up. 
A-4 is 2% inches in front of crease line. 
A-5 is % of an inch below A-4. 
Draw a line from A-1 back for collar stand 

the same amount plus 1/2 inch as from A 

to 2 to get point A-6. 
Square up from A-6 thru crease line. 
Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. 
Shape the balance of collar as diagram. 
Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch 

on broken lines. 
The arm scye measure is 21i/_> inches. 
Come up 14 the arm scye from G to locate the 

back sleeve notch at X-X. 
This finishes the draft. 






57 



DOUBLE BREASTED BOX BACK OVERCOAT WITH SHAWL 

COLLAR 




Breast 40 in. 

Waist 36 in. 

\A'aist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follo\vs : — 

Scye depth _. 914 in. 
Waist length Aiy., in. 
Full length 45 in. 
Seat 41 inches. 



Blade I2I4 in. 

Overshoulder -IS'/j. in. 
Strap 121/2 in. 



58 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is '/!! breast plus -'Ki. of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X-1 is Va breast plus 1 inch up from X. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

1 is Vi! breast phis 1 inch in from A. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. 

C-5 is IV2 inch from C-4. 

Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 
and F-2. 

G is 1% inch below C-5. 

G-1 is 1% inch below C-3. 

Draw a line from G to G-1. 

G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 
notch. 

C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 
to C-2 in front of C-3. 

Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 

Shape from A to 2. 

Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- 
ply the amount on C-3, measure up on 
the hne drawn from C-3 to A-1 your 
strap measure plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 

Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending •; |. of an 
inch out from 3 to get point 4. 

6 is 1-16 breast up from G. 

Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. 

Shape from 4 to l^ inch in front of 6. 

A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/-. 
inch. 

8 is 1/2 inch below 5. 



Shape from 8 to A-1. 

Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. 

Shape from 7 down. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-8 is 4%. inches out from C-7. 

D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. 

D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 

D-5 to D-6 is 4% inches. 

Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. 

Square down from D-6 to locate H. 

H to H-1 is 2 inches. 

H to H-2 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from D-6 thru H-2. 

A-1 to A-2 is V)i breast plus % of an inch. 

Square out from A-2 to get A-4. 

Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. 

E-2 toE-3 is 11/2 inch. 

E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. 

Draw a line from 14, inch back of 7 thru E-4 

down. 
Draw a line from 14. inch back of 7 thru E-3 

dowh. 
Make the side seam of back the same length 

as side seam of fore part to get F-3. 
Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as dia- 
gram. 
A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. 
The roll is 14 inches below line A-2. 
Draw a line from bottom of roll thru A-3 up. 
A-5 is 1 inch below A-4. 
Draw a line from A-1 back for the collar 

stand the same amount as from A to 2 

plus 1/2 inch to get A-6. 
Square up 4 inches from A-6 on opposite side 

of crease line to get A-7. 
Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. 
Shape the collar as diagram. 
Apply over shoulder measure as on our 

Chesterfield overcoat measure, the arm 

scye and locate sleeve notch the same. 
The buttons are 6 inches from the edge when 

coat is finished and 6 inches apart. 
This finishes the draft. 



59 



BALMACANN OVERCOAT WITH MILITARY COLLAR 




Breast 40 in. 

Waist 36 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is •/!{ breast plus ■"ji. of an inch 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 up to B to lorat 

C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 



Blade 121,4 in. 

Overshoulder -18 14 in- 
Strap 121/2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : — 

Scye depth __ 91 |. in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length __38 in. 

Seat 41. Collar size 15 14. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 
X to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A. 
A to 1 is i/ji plus 1 inch. 
Square up from 1 to locate 2. 
Shape from A to 2. 
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 
C-4 to C-5 is 1 1/0 inch. 
Square up from C-5. 
Square down from C-5 to locate E-1. 
;'-!. Square down from C-3 to locate E-2. 

G is l-'i inches below C-5. 
G-1 is P'l inches below C-3. 



60 



Draw a line from G to G-l. 

G-3 is 21/0 inches below G. 

G-4 is 21/2 inches below G-l. 

Draw a line from G-3 to G-4. 

G-5 is half way between G-3 and G-4. 

G-6 is % of an inch in front of G-5. 

G-7 is i5^4. of an inch back from G-5. 

Draw a line from G-6 down thru E-2 to lo- 
cate F-1. 

Draw a line from G-7 down thru El to lo- 
cate F-2. 

U-6 IS one half the width of the back from 
0-0 to C-Z ni iront of U-3. 

bquare up trom o-b to locate A-1. 

i^raw a nne from A-i to H to locate 3. 

Draw a line from z thru 3 extending i/o of 
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 

5 is i/i inch in from C-5. 

Shape from 4 down thru 5. 

A-1 to 6 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 
inch. 

7 to 1/2 inch below 6. 
Shape from 7 to A-1. 

8 is 1 inch up from G-l. 
Shape from 7 down thru 8. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches for a military collar or 

3 inches for regular collar. 
D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. 
D-3 to D-4 is one half the waist measure. 
D-4 to D-5 is 2 inches for military collar or 3 

inches for regular collar. 
Square down from D-5 to locate H. 
H to H-1 is 2 inches. 
H to H-2 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from D-5 down thru H-2. 
Draw a line from D-5 up thru C-8. 
Shape from F to F-1. 
Make the side seam of the forepart the same 

as from G-6 down on back part, and 

shape out to H-1. 
A-1 to A-2 is i/fj breast plus 1/2 inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to 

the front. 
Measure the distance from A to 2 and apply 
the amount at A-1 and measure down half 

the neck size plus I14. inch to A-3. 
Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down the front. 
Draw a line from 8 to G-7 and shape. 
Draw a line from 5 to G-6 and shape. 
A-5 is 1/2 inch below A-1. 
Draw a line from A-5 to 8. 
Square back to 7 from line A-5 and 8 which 

gives you point 9. 

9 to 10 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape from A-5 thru 10 down to 8. 



Draw a line from 2 to 5. 

Square out to 4 from line 2 and 5 which gives 

you point 11. 
11 to 12 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape from 2 thru 12 and down to 5. 
Measure the arm scye which is 221/2 inches 

and come up from G 14 the arm scye 

measure for the back sleeve notch to 

point X-X and square back to get point 

O. 
Measure from A-5 to 8 for the front sleeve 

height. 
Measure from to 2 for the back sleeve 

height. 
Measure from 8 to G-7 for the front under 

arm length. 
Measure from to G-6 for the back under 

arm length. 
Measure the distance from 12 to 4 and from 

10 to 7 for full shoulder width. 
Cut the pattern thru at G-6 and F-1 and 

paste a piece of paper on the fore part, 

then lay your pattern together the same 

as before and trace off the amount from 

G-7 to F-2. 
This finishes the draft. 

THE MILITARY COLLAR. 

Measure the neck from A to 2 and from A-1 
to A-3 which in this case is 9 inches. 

Draft as follows : — • 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is the collar size 9 inches. 

Square down from B. 

A to C is one half the collar size 4i/j inches 
and B to D is the same. 

Draw a line from C to D. 

A to E is 11/2 inch. 

Square in from E. 

D to G is the collar size 9 inches. 

Draw a line from D to G and square up frojii 
G to locate G-l. 

Square up from D. 

D to F-1 is 11/2 inch. 

Draw a line from G-l to F-1. 

H is half way between D and G. 

Square up from H. 

H to H-1 is 14 inch. 

H-1 to H-2 is 11/2 inch. 

Square up from G-l. 

G-l to G-2 is 21/:. inches. 

H-2 to H-3 is 21/2 inches. 

F-1 to F-2 is 21/2 inches. 

Shape from G to H-1 and D. 

Shape from G-l to H-2 and F-1. 

Shape from G-2 to H-3 and F-2. 

This finishes the draft. 



61 



RAGLAN SLEEVE OVERCOAT WITH CONVERTIBLE COLLAR 




Breast 40 in. 

Waist 36 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth _^ 9i/i. in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length -_40 in. 

Seat 41. Collar size 15i/j. 



Blade I2I4. in. 

Overshoulder -ISi/t in. 
Strap 121/2 in. 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is ' !( breast plus '■}/[. of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 



r-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X-1 is ' !i breast plus 1 inch up from X. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

1 is 1/h breast plus 1 inch in from A. 



62 



Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. 

C-5 is IV2 inch from C-4 

Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 

and F-2. 
G is 1% inches below C-5. 
G-1 is 1% inches below C-3. 
Draw a line from G to G-1. 
G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve 

notch. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 

to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Shape from A to 2. 
Apply the strap measure the same as foi 

regular coat. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 inch 

out from 3 to get point 4. 
6 is 1-16 breast up from G. 
Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. 
Shape from 4 to 14. inch in front of 6. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 

inch. 

8 is 1/2 inch below 5. 

Shape from 8 to A-1. 

Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. 

Shape from 7 down. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-8 is 3 inches out from C-7. 

D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. 

D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 

D-5 to D-6 is 3 inches. 

Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. 

Square down from D-6 to locate H. 

H to H-1 is 2 inches. 

H to H-2 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from D-6 down thru H-2. 

A-1 to A-2 is 1 8 breast plus % of an inch. 

Square out from A-2. 

Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. 

E-2 to E-3 is 11/2 inch. 

E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. 

Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-4 

down. 
Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-3 

down. 
Make the side seam of back the same length 

as the side seam of fore part to get F-3. 



Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as 
diagram. 

Measure from A to 2 and place the amount 

on A-1 and measure half the collar size 

plus 11/2 inch down to get point A-3. 
A-5 is 5)j of an inch in front of A-1. 
A-6 is "'a of an inch in front of A-5. 
The roll is 11 inches down below line A-2. 
Draw a line from the bottom of the roll to 

A-6. 
Draw a line from A-3 back thru A-5 as dia- 
gram. 
Measure the width of back from A to 2 and 

apply this amount plus V2 inch from A-1 

back to A -7. 
Drop 114 inch below A-7 and shape the col- 
lar stand as diagram. 
Draw a line from A-7 to the crease line at the 

top of lapel. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram. 
K is V-i inch below A-1. 
Draw a line from K to G-2. 
Square out from line drawn from K to G-2 

back to 8, which gives you K-1. 
K-2 is 1/2 inch out from K-1. 
Shape from K to K-2 and G-2 as diagram. 
Draw a line from 2 to C-5. 
Square out from line 2 and C-5 back to 4 

which gives you K-3. 
K-3 to K-4 is 1/2 inch. 
Shape from 2 to K-4 and C-5 as diagram. 
The arm scye measure is 22 inches. 
Measure up 14 the arm scye measure from G 

and square back to locate X-X. 
Apply over shoulder measure the same as for 

regular coat. 
Measure the distance from K to K-2 and 

down to G-2 for the front shoulder 

height. 
Measure the distance from A-1 to 8 for the 

front shoulder width. 
Measure from K-2 to 8 and from 4 to K-4 for 

the full shoulder width. 
Measure from 2 to X-X for the back shoulder 

height. 
Measure from 2 to 4 for the back shoulder 

width. 
Measure from X-X down to 6 and from 7 

around to G-2 for the under arm scye 

length for sleeve. 
Ihis finishes the draft. 



63 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 




The double breasted frock overcoat is cut 
the same as a double breasted frock un- 
dercoat, except that it is enlarged three 
sizes, in this way the normal breast 
measure is :!« and the coat is cut 39 
l)reast. 



Breast 39 in. 

Wai.st 35 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The nicasurenients are as follows: — 

Scye dei)th 9 I-IG in. 

Waist length _17 in. 

Full length ___ 4.5 in. 

Seat 40. Collar size 16. 



Blade _ 12 in. 

Overshoulder -17% in. 
Strap 12' I in 



{i4 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 2 inches for fashionable waist 

length. 
E to F is 6 inches. 
A to G is the full length. 
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. 
D to D-1 is the waist depression. 
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. 
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 
E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. 
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. 
C-1 to C-2 is 11,4 inch. 
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 
Square up from C-3 to locate X. 
X to X-1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A. 
A to 1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. 
Square up from 1 to locate 2. 
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 
C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. 
Square up from C-5. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-t) 

to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending- V2 of 

an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
C-7 is 1% of an inch below C-5. 
C-8 is 1% of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. 
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve 

notch. 
H is half way between C-7 and 3. 
H-1 is % of an inch out from H. 
Shape from 4 to H. 
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. 
C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. 
Shape from H to C-11 and down to lC-2 to 

locate D-3. 
Shape from A to 2. 
D-3 to D-4 is the waist depression less V2 

inch. 
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. 
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. 
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. 
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to 

D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. 



Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 

to locate E-3. 
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. 
F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. 
E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. 
Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. 
Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. 
E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. 
Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square 

out from G-3. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 

inch. 
6 is 1/2 inch below 5. 
Shape from 6 to A-1. 
Shape from 6 down thru C-9. 
Shape from H-1 down. 
C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. 
C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch. 
D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. 
D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. 
D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch. 
D-9 to D-10 is 31/2 inches. 
Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. 
Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. 
Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. 
C-14 to C-15 is 41/2 inches. 
Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. 
A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to 

the front. 
Measure half the neck size plus 11/4 inch 

from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get 

A-3. 
D-10 to F-3 is 4 inches. 
Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. 
F-4 is % of an inch above F-3. 
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. 
Square down from E-6 to get G-5. 
G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. 
Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for 

flare, this can be more or less for style. 
Shape from A-3 to C-13 and D-9 down. 
A-4 to A-5 is 31/2 inches. 
Shape from A-5 down. 
The over shoulder and strap measure are 

applied the same as for regular coat, 

also the sleeve. 
This finishes the draft. 



65 



TUXEDO COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR 




Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth __ 81/^ in. 

Waist length _17 in. 

Full length __30 in. 

Seat 37. 



Blade llVi. in. 

Overshoulder -16''4 in. 
Strap 111/2 in. 



66 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is 6 inches. 

A to F is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E and F. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is ll/i inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

A to 1 is i/s plus 1 inch. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

Shape from A to 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 

C-5 is 11/2 inch in from C-4. 

Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, 

E-1 and F-1. 
Square down from D-2 to locate E-2. 
D-3 to D-4 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. 
E-1 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-2 plus 

% of an inch. 
Draw a line from D-3 down thru E-3. 
Draw a line from D-4 down to E-1. 
C-6 is one half the width of the back from 

C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an 

inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
G is % of an inch below C-5. 
Square down %. of an inch from C-3 to locate 

G-1. 
Draw a line from G-1 to G. 
G-2 is 1 inch above G-1 for front sleeve notch. 
6 is 1-6 breast up from G. 
Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. 



Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front 6. 

Draw a line from i/i. inch back of 7 to D-4. 

Shape from D-4 thru E-1 down. 

Shape from 14 inch back of 7 to D-3 and 

down thru E-3. 
D-3 to F-2 is the same as from D-4 to F-1. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 

inch. 
8 is 1/2 inch below 5. 
Shape from 8 to A-1. 
Shape from 8 to G-2 and down. 
Shape from 7 down. 
D-1 to D-5 is 2 inches. 
D-5 to D-6 is one half the waist measure. 

D-6 to D-7 is 11/2 inch. 

Square down from D-7 to locate H. 

H to H-1 is 2 inches. 

H to H-2 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from F-2 to H-1. 

Draw a line from D-7 thru H-2. 

C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from D-7 up thru C-8. 

A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus i/j inch. 

Square out from A-2. 

Shape from A-1 to the front. 

A-1 to A-3 is 114 inch. 

Draw a line from D-7 up thru A-3. 

A-4 is 2V2 inches in front of crease line. 

A-1 is A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 1/2 

inch. 
Square down I14 inch from A-5 to locate A-6. 
A-7 is % of an inch below A-4. 
Shape from A-6 to A-7 as diagram. 
Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and 

lapel down to D-7. 
Shape from D-7 down. 
The overshoulder and strap measures are 

applied the same as for sack coat, also 

the sleeve. 
This finishes the draft. 



67 



CUTAWAY FROCK 




Breast 38 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows: 

Seye depth __ 8i/> in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length __38 in. 

Seat 39. 



Blade lH/i. in. 

Overshoulder -IG'Vj. in. 
Strap 111/2 in. 



68 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is IV2 inch for fashionable waist 
length. 

E to F is 6 inches. 

A to G is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E, F and G. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. 

Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 

E-1 to E-2 is i/s breast. 

Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. 

C-1 to C-2 is IV4 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X to X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

A to 1 is Vf! breast plus 1 inch. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 

C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. 

Square up from C-5. 

C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 
to C-2 in front of C-3. 

Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 

Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 

Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of 
an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 

C-7 is % of an inch below C-5. 

C-8 is % of an inch below C-3. 

Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. 

C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve 
notch. 

H is half way between C-7 and 3. 

H-1 is % of an inch out from H. 

Shape from 4 to H. 

C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. 

C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. 

Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- 
cate D-3. 

Shape from 1 to 2. 

D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less 1/2 
inch. 

D-4 to D-5 is i/i- waist. 



Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. 

Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. 

Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 

down to locate E-5 and E-6. 
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 

to locate E-3. 
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. 
F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. 
E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. 
Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. 
Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. 
E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. 
Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square 

out. 
G-3 to G-4 is one half the waist measure or 

16 inches. 
C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure. 
C-12 to C-13 is 214 inches. 
D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. 
D-7 to -8 is one half the waist measure. 
D-8 to D-9 is 1% inches. 
Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. 
Draw a line from G-4 up to D-9. 
F-3 is 3% inches below D-9. 
A-1 to A-5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 

inch. 
6 is V2 inch below 5. 
Shape from 6 to A-1. 
Shape from 6 thru C-9 down. 
Shape from H-1 down. 
A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus % of an inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. 
A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. 
The bottom of roll is 11 inches down from 

A-2 line. 
Draw a line from bottom of roll to A-3. 
A-4 is 21/1. inches in front of crease line. 
Shape lapel and front down as diagram. 
Draw a line from F-3 to E-6. 
F-4 is 1/2 inch below F-3. 
Shape the skirt from E-4 to F-4. 
The over shoulder and strap measure is ap- 
plied the same as for regular coat. 
The collar is also drafted the same. 
This finishes the draft. 



69 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK 




Breast 38 in. 

Waist 34 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows :- 

Scye depth __ Sys in. 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full length __42 in. 
Seat 39. Neck size 15. 



Blade 1134 in. 

Over shoulder nV-> in. 
Strap 12 'n. 



70 



Square 


down and out from A. 




AtoB 


is Vf! breast plus % of an 


inch. 


A to C 


is the scye depth. 




A to D 


is the waist length. 





D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable wai>;t 

length. 
E to F is 6 inches. 
A to G is the full length. 
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. 
D to D-1 is the waist depression. 
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-l . 
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 
E-1 to E-2 is 1/8 breast. 
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. 
C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. 
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 
Square up from C-3 to locate X. 
X to X-1 is Vfi breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A. 
A to 1 is i/h breast plus 1 inch. 
Square up from 1 to locate 2. 
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 
C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. 
Square up from C-5. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-^ 

to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14 of 

an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
C-7 is % of an inch below C-5. 
C-8 is 'Y^ of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. 
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve 

notch. 
H is half way between C-7 and 3. 
H-1 is % of an inch out from H. 
Shape from 4 to H. 

C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. 
C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. 
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- 
cate D-3. 
Shape from A to 2. 
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less V-j 

inch. 
D-4 to D-5 is 14. waist. 
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. 
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. 
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to 

D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. 



Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 

to locate E-3. 
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. 
F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. 
E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. 
Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. 
Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. 
E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. 
Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square 

out from G-3. 

A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less Va 
inch. 

6 is 1/2 inch below 5. 

Shape from 6 to A-1. 

Shape from 6 down thru C-9. 

Shape from H-1 down. 

C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch. 

D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. 

D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. 

D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch. 

D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches. 

Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. 

Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. 

Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. 

C-14 to C-15 is 31/2 inches. 

Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. 

A-1 to A-2 is 14>, breast plus •%, of an inch. 

Square out from A-2. 

Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the 

front. 
Measure half the neck size plus II4 inch 

from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get 

A-3. 
D-10 to F-3 is 334 inches. 
Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. 
F-4 is 34 of an inch above F-3. 
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. 
Square down from E-6 to get G-5. 
G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. 
Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. 
Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 

for flare, this can be more or less, ac- 
cording to style. 
Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down. 
A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches. 
Shape from A-5 down. 
The over shoulder and strap measures are 

applied the same as for regular coat als.o 

the sleeve. 
This finishes the draft. 



71 



CLERICAL FROCK 




Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows :— 

Scye depth __ 8V2 in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length __38 'n. 

Seat 37. Collar size 141/.. 



Blade II14 in. 

Over shoulder 16% in. 
Strap 111/2 in- 



Square down and out from A. 
A to B is Va breast plus -Yi. of an inch. 
A to C is the scye depth. 
A to D is the waist length. 
D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable waist 
length. 



E to F is 6 inches. 

A to G is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E, F and G. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. 



iz 



Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 

E-1 to E-2 is Vfi breast. 

Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. 

C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X to X-1 is Va breast plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

A to 1 is Vg breast plus 1 inch. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 

C-4 to C-5 is IV2 inch. 

Square up from C-5. 

C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 

to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 of 

an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
C-7 is %. of an inch below C-5. 
C-8 is % of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. 
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve 

notch. 
H is half way between C-7 and 3. 
H-1 is % of an inch out from H. 
Shape from 4 to H. 
C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. 
C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. 
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 t.- hi- 

cate D-3. 
Shape from 1 to 2. 
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less Y2 

inch. 
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. 
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. 
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. 
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to 

D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-0. 
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 

to locate E-3. 
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. 
F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. 
E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. 
Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. 
Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. 
E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. 
Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square 
out from G-3. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 

inch. 



6 is 1/2 inch below 5. 

Shape from 6 to A-1. 

Shape from 6 down thru C-9. 

Shape from H-1 down. 

C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. 

C-12 to C-13 is 11/4 inch. 

C-13 to C-1 4 is 11/2 inch. 

D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. 

D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. 

D-8 to D-9 is 1V4 inch. 

D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch. 

Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. 

Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-14. 

A-1 to A-2 is 1/8 breast plus 1/2 inch. 

Square out from A-2. 

Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the 
front. 

Measure half the collar size plus IVi inch 
from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get 
A-3. 

A-3 to A-4 is 11/4. inch. 

Shape from A-4 thru C-14 and D-10 down. 

D-10 to F-3 is 3% inches. 

Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. 

F-4 is %. of an inch above F-3. 

Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. 

Square down from E-6 to get G-5. 

G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. 

Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. 

Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 
for flare, this can be more or less for 
style. 

The over shoulder and strap measures are 
applied the same as for regular coat and 
also the sleeve. 

THE COLLAR. 

Measure your neck from A to 2 and from A-1 
to A-3 and draft. 

The neck size is 8I/2 inches. 

A to B is 8I/2 inches. 

A to C is half the neck size or 414 inches. 

Square out from C and down from B to lo- 
cate D. 

D to E is 11/2 inch. 

A to F is 11/2 inch. 

Square in from F. 

D to G is the neck size. 

Square up l'/. inch from G to get H. 

Draw a line from H to E. 

Shape from H to E and from G to D as dia- 
gram. 

This finishes the draft. 



73 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR STOUT 




Breast 44 in. 

Waist 44 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows :- 

Scye depth 10 in. 

Waist length __ 17 in. 

FuU length 41 in. 

Seat 45. Neck size 16i/>. 



Blade 131/4 in. 

Over shoulder 19% in. 
Strap 131/2 in. 



74 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vt! breast plus % of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

D to E is IV2 inch for fashionable waist 

length. 
E to F is 6 inches. 
A to G is the full length. 
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. 
D to D-1 is the waist depression. 
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. 
Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 
E-1 to E-2 is Vs breast. 
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. 
C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. 
C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 
Square up from C-3 to locate X. 
X to X-1 is i/j! breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X-1 to A. 
A to 1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. 
Square up from 1 to locate 2. 
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 
C-4 toC-5is 11/2 inch. 
Square up from C-5. 
C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to 

C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an 

inch out from 3 to get point 4. 
C-7 is % of an inch below C-5. 
C-8 is % of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. 
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve 

notch. 
H is half way between C-7 and 3. 
H-1 is % of an inch out from H. 
Shape from 4 to H. 

C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. 
C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. 
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- 
cate D-3. 
Shape from A to 2. 
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less V2 

inch. 
D-4 to D-5 is 1/4 waist. 
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. 
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. 
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to 

D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. 
Shape from HI to C-11 and down thru D-4 

to locate E--3. 



Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. 

F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. 

E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw a line from E-4 thru F-2. 

Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. 

Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. 

E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. 

Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square 

out from G-3. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 

inch. 
6 is 1/2 inch below 5. 
Shape from 6 to A-1. 
Shape from 6 down thru C-9. 
Shape from H-1 down. 
C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. 
C-12 to C-18 is 114 inch. 
D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches less I/4. inch for each 

inch waist is stout. 
D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. 
D-8 to D-9 is 11/4, inch. 
D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches. 
Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. 
Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. 
Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. 
C-14 to C-15 is 31/2 inches. 
Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. 
A-1 to A-2 is Va breast plus % of an inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the 

front. 
Measure half the neck size plus ly^, inch 

from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get 

A-3. 
D-10 to F-3 is 334 inches. 
Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. 
F-4 is % of an inch above F-3. 
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. 
Take out V2 inch V at 20 and 21 as diagram. 
Square down from E-6 to get G-5. 
G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. 
Draw a hne from E-6 to G-6. 
Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 

for flare, this can be more or less for 

style. 
Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down. 
A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches. 
Shape from A-5 down. 
The over shoulder and strap measures are 

applied the same as for regular coat, 

also the sleeve. 
This finishes the draft. 



75 






FULL DRESS COAT 




The measurements are as follows : — 



Breast 36 in. 

Waist 32 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



81/j in. 



Scye depth 
Waist length 17 in. 
Full length __39 in. 
Seat 39 in. 



Blade 11 1/4. in. 

Over shoulder 16'! (, in. 
Strap 111/2 in. 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Vn breast plus '% of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 



A to D is the normal waist length. 
D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable waist 
length. 



7G 



E to F is 6 inches. 

A to G is the full length. 

Square out from C, D, E, F and G. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. 

Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. 

E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. 

Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. 

C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

Square up from C-3 to locate X. 

X to X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch. 

Draw a line from X-1 to A. 

A to 1 is y^ breast plus 1 inch. 

Square up from 1 to locate 2. 

C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. 

C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. 

Square up from C-5. 

C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 

to C-2 in front of C-3. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. 
Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch 

out from 3 to get point 4. 
C-7 is 34 of an inch below C-5. 
C-8 is 3,4 of an inch below C-3. 
Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. 
C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve 

notch. 
H is half way between C-7 and 3. 
H-1 is % of an inch out from H. 
Shape from 4 to H. 

C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. 
C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. 
Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to 

locate D-3. 
Shape from A to 2. 
D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure, less V2 

inch. 
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. 
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. 
Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. 
Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to 

D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-G. 
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 

to locate E-3. 



Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. 

F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. 

E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. 

Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. 

Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. 

D-6 to D-7 is 14, breast. 

E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. 

Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square 

out. 
G-3 to G-4 is one half waist. 
Draw a line from G-4 up thru D-7 2 inches to 

get D-8. 
C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure. 
C-12 to C-13 is 2% inches. 
Measure your waist from D-2 to D-3 and 

from D-4 to D-5 and from D-6 out to 

D-9 half the waist measure. 
D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch. 
Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-13. 
A-1 to A-2 is i/y breast plus 1/2 inch. 
Square out from A-2. 
Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to 

the front. 
A-1 to A-3 is 11/4 inch. 
Draw a line from A-3 to D-10. 
A-4 is 1''4. inches in front of the crease line. 
X-X is 1/4 breast plus V2 inch below the fash- 
ionable waist length. 
Draw a line from X-X to E-6. 
X-X to is 1 inch. 

Shape from D-7 down to G-2 as diagram. 
Take out gore at side body from D-8 down 

as diagram. 
Shape lapel from A-4 out and down thru 

D-10 to 0. 
A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 

inch. 
6 is 1/2 inch below 5. 
Shape from 6 to A-1. 
Shape from 6 down thru C-9. 
Shape from H-1 down. 
Apply over shoulder and strap measure the 

same as for regular sack coat. 
Shape the skirt from E-4 to the front. 
This finishes the draft. 



77 



FULL DRESS CAPE GOWN 




Breast 40 in. 

Waist 36 in. 

Waist depression 2 in. 



The measurements are as follows: — 

Scye depth -- 914 in. 

Waist length 17 in. 

Full length _36 in. 

Collar size 16 inches. 



Blade I214 in. 

Over shoulder 1814 in- 
Strap 121/2 in. 



IE 



78 



Square down and out from A. 

A to B is Va breast plus 34 of an inch. 

A to C is the scye depth. 

A to D is the waist length. 

A to E is the full length. 

Square out from C and D. 

D to D-1 is the waist depression. 

D-2 is half way between D and D-1. 

Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. 

C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. 

C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. 

C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. 

C-5 is 11/2 inch in front of C-4. 

C-6 is one halt the width of back from C-2 to 

C-5 in front of C-3. 
C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. 
C-8 is 3 inches out from C-7. 
Square down from C-6 to get D-3. 
D-4 is 2 inches in front of D-1. 
D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. 
D-5 to D-6 is 3 inches. 
A to 1 is i/a breast plus 1 inch. 
Square up from 1. 
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. 
A-1 to X is Vs breast plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from X to A-1 to locate 2. 
Draw a line from B thru 2 up. 

2 to 3 is the scye depth. 
Square out from 3. 

3 to 4 is the same as from C-6 to C-8. 
2 to 5 is the waist length. 



Square out from 5. 

5 to 6 is the same as from D-3 to D-6. 
Draw a line from 6 thru 4. 

Square down from 6. 

6 to 7 is the same as from 5 to E plus IV2 

inch. 

Square back li/j inch from 7 to get 12. 

2 to 8 is i/fi breast plus ^^ of an inch. 

Square out from 8 to get 9. 

Shape from 9 to 2 and from A to 2. 

2 to A-2 is 1/2 inch. 

Place the short arm of square on points C 
and A-2 and square out from A-2. 

A-2 to A-3 is the same as from A-2 to E. 

Shape from E to A-3. 

A-3 to A-4 is 10 inches. 

A-3 to A-5 is 10 inches. 

Shape from 12 to A-3. 

A-2 to X-X is 1-3 breast. 

Draw a line from X-X to A-4 and from X-X 
to A-5. 

Shape from A-2 thru X-X down as diagram 
to A-4 and A-5. 

Measure half the collar size plus I14 inch 
from A to A-2 and around to get X-2. 

X-2 to X-3 is 1% inches. 

Shape from X-3 down the front to 12. 

Cut the pattern out and take out the amount 
from A-3 to A-4 and A-5 up to X-X. 

This finishes the draft. 



79 



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